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 NORTH
LUANGWA
NATIONAL
PARK
This remote tract of land
covering 4636 square kilometres offers one of the finest wilderness
experiences in Zambia, if not Africa itself. It is not open to the public
and there are no permanent lodges there. Access is with one of the few
safari operators granted permission to conduct walking safaris there.
The beauty of visiting this
park is the truly remarkable opportunities to experience Africa as it was.
It is wild and untouched and you are simply an unobtrusive witness to its
natural beauty and drama.
Although declared a wilderness area, the North Park, was not open to anyone
other than Game Department rangers for more than thirty years. In 1984,
Major John Harvey and his wife Lorna sought permission to conduct walking
safaris in the area and for many years were the only operators in this
remote wilderness.
Then in 1989, Two scientists, Mark and Delia Owens, famed for their book
‘Cry of the Kalahari’, were granted permission to set up a research station
in the park. Through their influence and as a means of helping to curb
poaching in the area, the authorities allowed entry to the park to a few
more safari operators who bring limited numbers into the park for guided
walking safaris and game drives. Their efforts in the North Luangwa are
documented in their book ‘Survivors Song / The Eye of the Elephant’.
There are very few roads and you’re unlikely to
see anyone else for the duration of your trip.
Like the
South Park, it lies on the western bank of
the Luangwa River bordered on the other side by
the dramatic Muchinga escarpment which rises
over 1000 meters from the valley floor. Its hazy
outline can clearly be seen from the Luangwa
river.
There are a number of tributary rivers running through the park and into the
Luangwa which play an important ecological role in the Area. The crystal
clear Mwaleshi River trickles down the escarpment in a series of small
waterfalls. It recedes in the dry season, leaving many pools along the way,
drawing the animals from the bush to its banks in search of water. No game
drives are permitted in the Mwaleshi area, access is by organised walking
safaris only.
Vegetation ranges from mopane woodland to
riverine forest, open grasslands and acacia thicket, the beautiful sausage
trees, vegetable ivory palms, red mahogany and leadwood.
What to See
The park is noted
for its massive herds of
buffalo, a spectacular sight if they’re
seen on the run, kicking up dust for miles
behind them. Large prides of
lion inhabit the territory and it is not
uncommon to witness a kill. Other common mammals
are hyaena, Cookson’s wildebeest, bushbuck,
zebra, warthog, baboon, vervet monkey, puku
and impala.
Elephant and
leopard are also seen, but not as
frequently as in the South Park. You are more
likely to see hartebeest, reedbuck and
eland here, however. All the birds in the
South have been recorded here as well. Sighted
regularly are the crowned cranes, purple crested
loeries, broad billed roller, Lilian’s lovebird,
the carmine bee-eater, giant eagle owl and Pel’s
fishing owl. Occasionally seen are the bathawk,
black coucal and osprey.
Getting There
Although this
park was officially opened to the public in
1984, the infrastructure in and to the park is
not sufficiently developed to cater for the
independent traveller. Special permission to
enter it must be obtained from the Dept of
National Parks and Wildlife Services in Chilanga
or Mpika. This is not advisable due to its
remoteness should anything go wrong with your
vehicle. The best way to experience this park is
with one of the operators running safaris here.
One can fly in to either Mfuwe International
Airport, about four hours away and be picked up,
or be brought in from the Mpika side of the
escarpment. There are two airstrips that are
open for charter traffic.
See
Package Tours in the index for
pre-arranged trips in Zambia including North
Luangwa.
Where to stay
There are no
lodges open to the public in the North Park but
several operators run prebooked, organised
safaris there.
Shiwa Safaris have two bush camps and
their safaris begin at the
Shiwa Ngandu estate over the western side of
the escarpment.
Zambia's smallest
owner-operated camp,
Kutandala Camp catering for only six
guests on each safari. All the rooms have an
unrestricted view of the Mwaleshi River and its
flood plain throughout the day.
Mwaleshi Camp
situated on a scenic bend of the
Mwaleshi
River, a beautiful river within the North
Luangwa National Park. It comprises of 3
attractive reed chalets, each with stunning
views over the river. Game viewing is on
foot, in a remote area renowned for its lion,
huge herds of buffalo and endemic
Cookson’s
wildebeest.
Delia Camp is situated in an
area that is renowned for its plentiful wildlife. Special attention has
been paid to ensure the 5 timber bungalows blend into the environment
whilst still allowing wonderful views of the river. What a pleasure it
is to sit on the viewing platform watching the animals come down to
drink from the ever-changing river. The bungalows are built well above
the ground with a walkway between each unit. The lodge has an enormous
terrace of more than 300 square metres with views over the Luangwa
River. Visitors often see buffalo, hippos, elephants and even lions come
to drink. Lunch in the shade of the restaurant, with its exceptional
views, is very popular. Candle-lit suppers are accompanied by the sounds
of the African night. All this, together with game-viewing by vehicle
with highly qualified guides, makes this a truly memorable destination!
See
Package Tours in the index for
pre-arranged trips in Zambia including North
Luangwa
When to go
Operators in this
region conduct safaris in the dry season from
June to October when animal sightings are at
their peak. Access in the wet season is
virtually impossible.
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