 LIUWA
PLAIN
NATIONAL
PARK
This
remote park in the far west is pristine wilderness, which to the ardent bush lover, makes
it its biggest attraction and the rewards are great.
.JPG)
The game is spread out across the plains
and takes some driving around to find. But to come upon a vast herd of
blue wildebeest, a prowling
wild dog, a dozing pride of
lion in this forgotten piece of Africa is especially
fascinating because of its completely natural and uncommercialised state. The birdlife is
abundant and the very dramatic storms and lightning rising up on the horizon, contrasting
with the green and gold grasslands create views of spectacular magnitude and fantastic
photographic opportunities.
What
to see
In November, with the onset of the rains, the massive herds
of blue wildebeest arrive from Angola, traversing the plains in their
thousands, very often mingling with
zebra along the
way or gathering around water holes and pans.
.JPG)
Other unusual antelope found include oribi,
red lechwe, steinbuck, duiker, tsessebe and roan. The Jackal, serval,
wildcat, wild dog as well as lion and
hyena are the predators of the area. Many birds migrate
here during the rains and massive flocks of birds can be seen as they migrate south. Some
of the more notables are the white bellied bustards, secretary bird, red billed and
hottentot teals, crowned and wattled cranes, long tailed whydah, sooty chat, yellow
throated longclaw, large flocks of black winged pratincoles around the pans, fish eagle,
tawny eagle, marshall eagle, woodland kingfisher, pink throated longclaw. The plains
are dotted with woodlands which also make for excellent birding.
When
to go
August to December. In November as the rainy season begins,
dramatic cloud formations erupt as the storms build, creating spectacular skylines and
with the onset of the rains, carpets of flowers explode around the pans. This is also the
time when large herds of blue wildebeest migrate across the plains from neighbouring
Angola.
Getting
there
Liuwa Plain is best accessed via
one of three tour operators offering ‘mobile
safaris’.
Private access demands at least two 4WD vehicles, complete
self sufficiency in terms of fuel, catering and camping supplies as well as a healthy
degree of offroad driving experience. Permission for private entry can be obtained from
the National Parks and Wildlife Services office at Chilanga (near Lusaka) or Kalabo, the
closest town to the plains. Kalabo is also the place to hire a guide. This is essential as
it is very easy to get very lost.
The road from Katima Mulilo to Kalabo is fine up to the
Nangweshi/Senanga ferry. From that point to Kalabo, estimate two days to do the 180
kilometres - low range driving over very sandy roads. There is no fuel available at Kalabo
so carry extra supplies.
Accessing Kalabo from Mongu depends on the seasonal levels
of the Zambezi - enquire at Mongu’s port office for available options which range
from the Post Boat to two ferries.
Where to stay
This is not a park one should tackle without a guide, there
are no visitor facilities or roads and very easy to get lost. Going with a licensed tour
operator to see the best this Park has to offer is highly recommended.
If you do tackle it alone, make sure you take an armed scout/guide from the Parks office
in Kalabo. One can camp anywhere in the park but don’t attempt it unless there are at
least two vehicles and you are fully self sufficient and prepared for all eventualities.
This is the ‘real’ Africa, and help is a long way away.
There are now
designated campsites that you get allocated
when you book - 5 camping areas per
community campsite - these share 2 flush
toilets and 2 cold water showers plus
handbasins. Each area has large shaded
areas on sand which are raked each day by
the guys who stay near the campsites (their
villages are not anywhere nearby) so you
only see them if you happen to be there when
they rake or are filling up the water for
the shower - they are very insistent on
having their books filled in! There are
also bundles of wood provided for a small
fee that can be replenished if you run out.
The water available is quite brackish so
needs to be boiled thoroughly.
You are now also
given a sketch map of the park at the Park
Office which shows various spots accompanied
by their GPS co-ordinates. There are sign
posts in the park but not that brilliant so
the map plus the co-ordinates are great.
Entry and camping fees:
NON-RESIDENTS
US$ 40
entry fee per person per day
US$ 10 camping fee per person per night
Children under 12 free
Children under 12 free
RESIDENTS
ZMK 20
000.00 entry fee per person
ZMK 20 000.00 camping fee per person
Children between 12 and 15 half charge
Children between 12 and 15 half charge
GUIDE
US$ 10
per Scout per day
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